Since discovering San Francisco City Guides during the 1906 Earthquake and Fire centennial in 2006, I have become somewhat obsessed with walking tours. In addition to receiving the award for attending the most City Guides tours during the 2008 training class, I have sought out similar guided walking programs in several other cities. In the September 2008 issue of GuideLines, I wrote about my experience with Big Onion Walking Tours in New York City.

Preparing for a recent trip to Argentina, I noted a guidebook reference to Eternautas (www .eternautas.com), where “highly informed young historians from the University of Buenos Aires lead the cultural and historical tours.” Their website was inviting, and after they responded to my initial inquiries I made reservations for two Buenos Aires walks: Paris of South America and From Village to Metropolis. The confirmation e-mails provided instructions on payment and when and where to meet the guide.

We are nearing the close of our three-hour exploration of the Argentinian writer's haunts. Fragasso works for Eternautas, a Buenos Aires-based tour company specialising in historic walks on specific themes, from the city's Jewish history and the Parisian-influenced architecture of its ritzy northern suburbs to the trails of famous residents, such as Evita Peron.

I began my first day in Buenos Aires by meeting my guide, Martín Marimón, in front of the Marriott Plaza for the 10 AM Paris of South America walk. I was the only walker.

Martín graduated from the University of Buenos Aires with a degree in history and had taught in a private high school and led walks for Eternautas since his graduation. Martín spoke perfect English and had traveled extensively in South America and Europe as well as one trip to the United States and Canada.

Paris of South America was described as a walk that focused on the areas of “Retiro and Recoleta, where Buenos Aires most clearly expresses its Parisian character, acquired in the early 20th century through its architectural styles and urban design.” The walk covered architecture, history of the neighborhood, social trends, and politics. As the only walker, I was able to have all of my questions answered as well as get advice for good restaurants and the best ice cream (Freddo).

My second day began with a 30-minute walk from my hotel to Plaza de Mayo to meet Martín (again) for the From Village to Metropolis walk. Again, I was the only walker. This walk was less about architecture and more about history and politics. “Four hundred years of history in fifteen blocks….The tour takes in monumental public buildings, antique residences, colonial churches and examples of utilitarian architecture, telling the story of a remote village that was meant to be a colonial capital and finally became a modern metropolis.”

Both walks gave me a great orientation for the city and a much better understanding of its history, growth, architecture, and social changes. The walks I took are both scheduled regularly and cost $15 each. Tipping is not automatic or expected in Argentina, but I gave Martín $5 extra each day since I was the only walker. I also took him to lunch the second day.